nothingmuchdave: RC Maniac

Showing posts with label RC Maniac. Show all posts

This is the latest kit from Tamiya... The Xanavi Nismo GTR on Tamiya TB03 shaft driven 4WD chassis...

The Xanavi Nismo GTR has made an impressive start to the 2008 Super GT series in Japan winning on debut and going on to record back to back wins... With its strong comeback to competitive racing, the GTR has also grown...

This is an assembly RC model of the Xanavi Nismo GTR... One of the top contenders for the championship and is driven by Satoshi Motoyama and Benoit Treluyer... Its low road hugging form is realistically reproduced and the seperated front fender end and headlight parts enhances the realistic finish to this model...

Equipped with many race use parts as standard, the TB03 also features a longitudinally mounted motor and shaft driven with 3 piece propeller shaft... The bathtub chassis has an integrated motor cooling duct to enhance motor performance as well... The suspension is made up of TRF416 front and rear uprights, short reversible suspension arms and the unique front inboard layout just like my TA05IFS.. The only difference between TB03 and my TA05IFS is TB03 is shaft driven while my TA05IFS is belt driven...

I am waiting for this bodyshell... Gonna get it once it reach Malaysia...

You can call it what you like... Stabilizer, sway or anti roll bar... The purpose of the stabilizer/sway/anti roll bar is to tie the left and right wheels, either front or rear together to help control bodyroll... For example, as an RC car rolls through a left hand turn, inertia forces the car to roll over it on the right side... If there is no sway bar, the right side suspension compresses and the left side goes into droop or extends... With an on road car like touring and drifters, this overloads the right side wheel and under utilizes the left and in tun lowering the car overall ability to maintain traction...

Let's add a sway bar to the scenario... As the car rolls through the turn, the right side of the suspension compresses as before... But now instead of the left side of the suspension going into droop, the sway bar pulls the left wheels up... This limits body roll and actually causes the car to settle down through a turn... The end result is actually to lower the car's center of gravity thus making it more stable...

TA05 / TA05IFS Stabilizer Bar...

Just like spring for absorber, sway bar comes with soft, medium and hard... So it is important to choose it according to your driving style and also track condition... If you are driving on a high traction surface and your car wants to oversteer, try to use sway bar on the front only... This will decrease the front chassis roll and decrease steering throughout the corner... This has the feeling of increasing rear traction... If your car is understeering, then try using sway bar on the rear only... The rear sway bar will decrease rear chassis roll and decrease rear traction... This has the feeling of increasing steering... If the conditions are very bumpy, then sway bar are not necessary... That's because if you hit a bump with one wheel, a hard sway bar can also upset the wheel on the other side of the suspension... This can cause smaller bumps that are not a problem with a plush suspension to feel much larger than actually are...

A few days back, I converted my TA05IFS to TA05... The benefit of buying Tamiya TA05IFS over Tamiya TA05 is you can actually have two different model for the price of one... I can set my car up using the IFS (Inboard Front Suspension) suspension system or change it to the more conventional way of mounting the suspension... IFS kit will provide all the necessary parts for the conversion...

Just have a test run today and it actually feels good... Now I really can't make up my mind whether to use IFS or conventional way of mounting the suspension...

For conventional suspension mount...

Use this for IFS application... The two rocker arm are for the absorber...

The difference between the two...

Absorber mounted...

Front damper stay...

IFS...

Conventional...

Those in blue are Tamiya 1mm damper retainer whereas the black plastics are the standard damper retainer...

Because springs tend to vary in length, Tamiya offers aluminum damper retainers featuring a spring support surface that is 1mm lower than standard... This provides much more flexibility with both Tamiya and aftermarket spring... Spring plays a very important role in car handling... Some people prefer to have softer spring in the front and harder spring in the rear...

As for RC drifting, most people prefer to have softer spring in front... The reason for this is because when you have softer front, car will have more roll into corner and thus creating more grip... As for rear, most people will prefer harder spring compare to front... The harder the spring the lesser the car roll and this will make the tyre to have lesser traction... So this will allow the rear to throw easier...

When seen from above, if the forward facing part of the front wheels or the rear wheels on an RC point away from the car and away from each other their position is described as toe out... Although less stable than a toe in position on straightaways, front toe out may provide for more responsive steering on turns... Rear toe out is rarely used... Most RC guys be it drifters or tourings prefer to use front toe out...

When seen from above, if the forward facing part of the front wheels or the rear wheels on an RC point in toward the car and toward each other their position is described as toe in... A slight toe in angle is commonly used to provide stability but too much toe in creates friction that slows down the car... Front toe in can help on straightaways while rear toe in slows you down on the straightaways... But rear toe in can help counteract an oversteer condition making it useful on a curvy course...

1.5 Degree Suspension Arm Holder

Most RC cars kit comes with changeable suspension arm holder... I change mine to 1.5 degree for the rear to create more toe in... Before using this setting, my car tend to oversteer a lot making it harder to control... Now setting the rear to 1.5 degree toe in, my car is very balance... No more over or understeer...

Muchmore 25mm x 25mm

Muchmore 30mm x 30mm

There are two sizes to choose from... 25mm x 25mm and 30mm x 30mm... This fan is usually use for ESC... I am using 30mm x 30mm for my ESC because I accidentally broke my original ESC fan... Without a fan, the ESC will definitely overheat... Instead of getting those China brand, I opted for Muchmore cause it is a very reputable brand and the performance is really insane... The fan turns at a very high speed hence the name ultra high RPM... Now my ESC run much cooler and definitely won't overheat...

So whats the benefit of running better fan for my ESC and motor cooler posted in my previous post??? Longer runtime... I don't have to stop drifting halfway just because the ESC and motor is overheating...

My motor use to be very very hot... As you know, it will damage the motor if the temperature is too high... When using this motor cooler there is significant drop in temperature... Before using this motor cooler I tried using others, but they are not as good as this... Besides that, now I am able to run a wider range of gearing for my car... This is indeed a very good product... Now I am not scare of overheating my motor anymore...

Blue Anodized Aluminum Motor Mount For TA05IFS...

The benefit of using aluminum motor mount is you can save as much as 4g weight saving over normal motor mount... This is very important for touring but not so for drifting... Besides that, motor will run cooler due to cooling fin running along the motor mount... Last but not least, it makes your car looks nice... More bling...

Front One Way...

Just as described, the front wheels are only allowed to turn one way... A one way bearing in the diff prevents the tire from spinning backward... While on power, both front wheels get equal power (no differential action)... Off power, the front wheels free spin on their own accord... This give high initial turn in, and allows you to really pull through the exit of a turn, as both front wheels are applying maximum power to the ground... Breaking becomes an issue, as the nature of the one way does not allow breaking to effect the front wheels... In effect, its like yanking the e-brake on a car... With out proper attention, this causes the car to loop out much easier, and makes it twitchier at speed...

The benefit of front one way on RC drifting is to minimize understeer... When using front ball diff, more understeer will occur and it is very hard to drift in tight and S-turn corner... Besides that, the angle that the car make is not that beautiful... The downside of using front one way is the car is harder to drive... But once you master it, it is actually as easy to drive as a front ball diff... Most RC drifters prefer to use front one way over ball diff...

Rear Ball Diff...

So what is a ball diff??? It’s a clever little device that takes up the difference in rotating speed between the left and right side driven wheels... Unless a four-wheeled vehicle is traveling perfectly straight, its left and right side wheels travel on different paths, at different speeds... The diff compensates for this while providing drive force to propel the vehicle... Without a diff, one or both of the driven wheels would be dragged across the road surface, resulting in a loss of traction...

Difference Between One Way And Ball Diff...

This is the limited edition damper by Tamiya Racing Factory (TRF)... The damper shaft is coated with titanium nitride... The titanium nitride coating offers a much harder surface than the stock fluorine coated shafts improving the life of the shaft and increasing time between rebuilds... The titanium nitride surface is also very smooth providing an ultra smooth compression and rebound action...

TRF damper with aluminum damper retainer 1mm down type...

Because springs tend to vary in length, Tamiya now offers aluminum damper retainers featuring a spring support surface that is 1mm lower than standard... This provides much more flexibility with both Tamiya and aftermarket spring choices...

In order to prolong carbon parts, it is advise to apply a layer of CA glue to the edges... Besides that, it is even better to use a very fine sand paper to sand off the rough edges... The reason for all these is to minimize crack due to collision...

The main chassis...

Upper deck... Most RC chassis now comes with upper deck to increase chassis stiffness...

Rear damper stay...

Spur gear holder...

Battery holder...

Tamiya Asia Cup (TAC) 2008 which is held in 1 Utama from 5th to 7th September... There are three categories... Buggy, M-chassis and GT... There are a few countries competing in this year TAC... Countries such as Korea, Philippines, Lebanon, Thailand, Singapore, Indonesia, Taiwan, Hong Kong and of course Malaysia... It is a team/country competition... The winning country will be given the opprtunity to compete in Japan for World Championship and it is wholly sponsor by Tamiya... Too bad there is no drifting competition... The reason for this is because it is a very new hobby outside of Japan... Maybe who knows, there will be drifting competition in the near future... Keeping my finger cross...

Today is only for practising... Getting familiar with the track layout... Qualifying will be tomorrow and on Sunday it will be the final... Hopefully our racers from Malaysia will made us proud...

This is M-chassis... It uses two wheel drive instead of four wheel drive like other RC cars... It comes with either front or rear wheel drive... It is also smaller compare to 1:10 RC cars...